东西时尚论剑新丝绸之路——中意时装设计师联合大秀侧记

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东西时尚论剑

新丝绸之路——中意时装设计师联合大秀侧记

A Gorgeous Visual Feast of Fashion from the East and the West

New Silk Road — Sidelights on the Joint Show of Chinese and Italian Fashion Designers

东西方时尚对话，是全球时尚界一个经久不衰的话题。

11月29日下午，这样的对话在青岛迎来了新的高潮。中国时尚大师张肇达MarkCheung、意大利高定之父ROBERTO CAPUCCI这两位代表着东西方时尚高度的设计大师，联合创作的120套“丝绸之路”主题时装盛大上演。上百名中外名模共同演绎了这一时尚文化的碰撞。

The dialogue between Eastern and Western fashion is an enduring topic in the global fashion industry.

This dialogue ushered in a new climax in Qingdao on the afternoon of November 29^{th. Chinese fashion master Mr. Mark Cheung and Mr. Roberto Capucci from Italy, the grand master of alta moda, who represent the highest level of fashion respectively in the East and the West, jointly launched a fashion show containing 120 sets of costumes themed on “Silk Road”. Hundreds of Chinese and overseas supermodels jointly presented a visual feast about this clash of fashion culture.}

中意时装设计师联合大秀——中国时尚大师张肇达MarkCheung作品

The “New Silk Road”- Chinese design master Mr. Mark Cheung

ROBERTO CAPUCCI开场系列即为丰富的连衣裙。包括多造型吊带中裙、撞色一字肩短裙、不对称撞色圆领荷叶边露背中裙、一字肩泡泡袖短裙……宝蓝、绿、白、紫红等色彩依次呈现。背景则是人们熟稔的罗马经典建筑，如古罗马广场、Pantheon、科林斯柱门廊、威尼斯广场前的雕像、Trevi喷泉、米开朗琪罗的圣彼得大教堂穹顶、灶神庙、斗兽场等。显然是夏季的缤纷格调、设计师长袖善舞的几何剪裁、以及地理影像等艺术元素的集成。而曳地百褶裙配短袖白T恤、U领褶皱无袖迷你连衣裙、撞色斜裁包臀连衣裙、宝塔长裙，以及极简白色长裤与迷你裙配卫衣系列、百褶长裙、单肩斗袖褶皱曳地长裙……相继带给业界这位设计大师引领的意式经典时尚美学。

Mr. Roberto Capucci started his collection with dresses of various styles, including a suspender middle skirt with rich modeling, an off shoulder skirt with contrast colors, a ruffled bare-back middle skirt with an asymmetric contrast-color round neck, an off shoulder puff-sleeve skirt ... Royalblue, green, white, prunosus and other colors were presented successively with Roman classic architecture as background, such as the Roman Forum, Pantheon, Corinthian portico, the statues in front of Piazza Venezia, Trevi Fountain, the dome of St. Peter’s Basilica, the Temple of Vesta, the Colosseum, etc. Obviously it is the integration of such artistic elements as the colorful style of summer, the geometric tailoring of the designer, and the geographic images. The full-length pleated skirt with short-sleeved white T-shirt, the U-neck pleated sleeveless mini dress, the flared package hip dress with contrast colors, the pagoda long skirt, as well as the minimalist white trousers and mini skirt with pullover hoody, the long pleated skirt, the one-shoulder bucket-sleeved full-length pleated skirt ... have successively showcased the classic Italian fashion aesthetics led by this designer to the industry.

中意时装设计师联合大秀——意大利高定之父ROBERTO CAPUCCI作品

The “New Silk Road”-Italian design master Mr. Roberto Capucci

而张肇达则一如既往地带来了宏大廓形与华美色调。瓷器、茶叶、香料、地毯、丝绸、琉璃等六个系列，分别解构着丝路上最为重要的六种中外贸易流通之物。开场的“CHINA”瓷器以器物经典的蓝与白为主色调，圆弧线条与瓷器纹理刻画出瓷器的立体造型。“茶叶”系列以绿色与棕色相晕染，以大量皱褶体现茶叶与枝条的纹理。“香料”系列以番红花、姜黄、肉桂等香料色为主色调，棉麻面料配以宽松与多层次的剪裁再现香料随风飘洒的景象。“地毯”系列运用大面积的平面剪裁突出波斯地毯形态，多重拼贴与多层次叠加手法再现了地毯的强烈结构性肌理。融汇中西特色的“丝绸”与“琉璃”系列运用殷红、绀青、紫棠、石绿等中式色彩相碰撞，以极具曲线感的立体剪裁与大量丝绸面料叠加营造出堆积感。尤其“琉璃”系列的隆重大型礼服以强反光的面料碰撞融入琉璃特有的炫丽色彩，突显琉璃流云漓彩，瑰丽变幻之美。渐变色的完美过渡、多材质的整合、丰富的肌理效果无疑是这位设计大师多年底蕴的肆意挥洒。

And Mr. Mark Cheung, as always, brought grand silhouettes and gorgeous colors. The six series of porcelain, tea, spices, carpets, silk, and colored glaze respectively deconstructed the six most important traded objects on the Silk Road. The “CHINA” porcelain at the opening is mainly based on the classic blue and white colors, and the arc lines and porcelain texture depict the three-dimensional shape of the porcelain. The “Tea” series is blended with green and brown, and a large number of folds reflect the texture of the tea and branches. The “Spices” series uses the colors of saffron, turmeric, and cinnamon as the main colors. The cotton and linen fabrics are matched with loose and multi-layered tailoring to reproduce the scene of spice blowing in the wind. The “Carpet” series uses a large area of flat cutting to highlight the form of Persian carpets, and the multiple tiles and multi-layer overlay techniques reproduce the strong structural texture of the carpet. The “Silk” and “Colored Glaze” series, which combine Chinese and Western characteristics, use Chinese colors such as blackish red, dark purple, the color of black with red in it, and mineral green to collide, and create a sense of accumulation with a very curvilinear three-dimensional cut and a large number of silk fabrics. In particular, the grand and large-scale dresses of the “Colored Glaze” series use strong reflective fabrics to collide with the unique dazzling colors of colored glaze, highlighting the beauty of colored glaze flowing through clouds with magnificent changes. The perfect transition of gradient colors, the integration of multiple materials, and the rich texture effects are undoubtedly a spray of his sound foundation.

中意时装设计师联合大秀——中国时尚大师张肇达MarkCheung作品

The “New Silk Road”- Chinese design master Mr. Mark Cheung

这场中意大秀紧扣丝绸之路主题，充分诠释了两位设计大师的精神世界。ROBERTO CAPUCCI以其明艳的色彩表现丝绸之路及至罗马后的喜悦的心境。而张肇达则表达了丝绸之路的双向商品与文化输出的过程、以及丝路人的意志。这种穿越丝绸之路的东西方精神，既展现了两个文明古国分别向东走、向西走的求索，更呈现出东西方哲学对生命追求的理解。

This Italy-China Fashion Show themed on The Silk Road fully reveals the spiritual world of the two masters. Roberto Capucci’s work shows the joyful mood upon the arrival in Rome through the Silk Road. Zhang Zhaoda’s work shows the exchange process of commodities and cultures of two countries; in the meantime, it also shows the travelers’ will. The Silk Road Spirit not only shows the search of oriental and western world, it also reveals the understanding of life of two cultures.

中意时装设计师联合大秀——中国时尚大师张肇达MarkCheung作品细节

The “New Silk Road”- Chinese design master Mr. Mark Cheung

时尚大师张肇达16岁即踏入时装业，早年在美国、法国等地浸淫多年，一出道即成为纽约第七大道的时尚先锋。在对西方现代造型艺术驾轻就熟后，近二十年来一直运用现代高级时装技艺来表达东方文明主题。这一卓然成就树立了中国时尚的高度，赢得了世界的赞叹。本次联合大秀以丝绸之路为主题创作，系列时装作品再度彰显这位大师幼年开始的美术功底，泼墨般的色彩呈现于层峦叠嶂的高级时装造型中，强大的视觉冲击力油然而生。

Mr. Mark Cheung entered the fashion industry at the age of 16. He spent many years in the United States, France and other places in his early years, and became a fashion pioneer on Seventh Avenue in New York at his debut. Based on the familiarity with Western modern formative arts, he has been using modern high fashion techniques to express the theme of Eastern civilization for the past two decades. This remarkable achievement established the height of Chinese fashion and won the praise of the world. This joint show was created on the theme of the Silk Road, and the series of fashion works once again demonstrated the master’s artistic skills since childhood. The splash-like colors are presented in the layer-upon-layer high-end fashion modeling, and a powerful visual impact emerges spontaneously.

中意时装设计师联合大秀——意大利高定之父ROBERTO CAPUCCI作品

The “New Silk Road”-Italian design master Mr. Roberto Capucci

ROBERTO CAPUCCI生于1930年，佛罗伦萨美术学院的舞台设计学习后，18岁转向时装设计道路。1962年-1968年到巴黎设计高级时装，声名远播后再回到罗马开拓新的时装道路。建筑美学风格开始名扬天下。而后现代主义、未来主义、先锋艺术……渗透至其三维立体式的建筑时装结构中，时装自身似乎有了强大的生命力，表现出更丰富的设计思想与艺术张力。本次创作再度秉承着其美学创造力，立体结构的造型艺术又一次呈现在世人面前。

Mr. Roberto Capucci was born in 1930. After studying stage design at Academy of Fine arts of Florence, he turned to fashion design at the age of 18. In 1962, he opened his couture salon in Paris and in 1968 he returned to Rome to open up a new fashion path. The architectural aesthetic style began to become famous all over the world. And postmodernism, futurism, avant-garde art ... penetrated into his three-dimensional architectural fashion structure; thereafter, fashion itself seemed to have strong vitality, showing richer design ideas and artistic tension. This creation once again upholds its aesthetic creativity, and the three-dimensional structure of formative arts is once again presented to the world.

少年出道、终身沉浸于时尚界、身为本国的时尚领袖……两位设计大师身上有着诸多的共同特征。以致这场大秀开场前即引来业界的万众期待。

Debut as a teenager, immersed in the fashion industry for life, as a fashion leader in their own country ... The two design masters have a lot in common. As a result, the show had been long awaited before it came to the stage.

此次中意两位设计大师的同台对话，是2020华夏基石（青岛）国际时尚产业峰会系列活动中的重头戏。作为两个文明古国，经由古丝绸之路牵引而出的千古友谊有着太多的文化演绎。马可波罗的传说、以及2019年意大利成为西方G7国家中首个加入一带一路的国家……从政府党派、到民间交往，太多的故事一直在持续。而时尚，更是两国共同的产业优势。但在两国时尚产业间，也存在互补性。优势互补使得两国间的时尚贸易与投资合作也愈来愈频繁。此次峰会正是集合了两国的精英，从高屋建瓴的产业论坛、到意大利新锐设计师静态展、再到系列时尚秀，正在将两国时尚合作路线推向新的高度。

The dialogue between the two design masters on the same stage is the highlight of 2020 Chinastone Annual Festival of International Fashion Industry Alliance (Qingdao). As two ancient civilizations, the friendship from the ancient Silk Road has too many cultural interpretations. From government parties to civil exchanges, a great many stories have continued: the legend of Marco Polo and that Italy became the first country in the Western G7 countries to join the Belt and Road Initiative in 2019 ... In particular, fashion is a common industrial advantage of the two countries. However, the fashion industry between two countries are also complementary, while the complementary advantages contribute to more frequent fashion trade and investment cooperation. This conference brought together the elites of the two countries to push the fashion cooperation route to a new height, from the high-level industrial forum, to the static exhibition of young Italian designers, and then to the series of fashion shows.

中国时尚大师张肇达谢幕

Chinese design master Mr. Mark Cheung

新丝绸之路——中意时装设计师联合大秀，即是系列时尚秀的高潮。两国时尚设计界的风云人物，及其带来的时尚碰撞，显然将两国间的产业贸易推至一个更高的对话平台，从文化底蕴、创作思想、时尚潮流等产业的上层建筑进行了深度交流。这不仅将产业合作从加工贸易、一般贸易、跨国并购升华至文化境界，也为近年来大量年轻设计师走向各自的市场进行采购贸易提升至设计大师间的文明对话。

The New Silk Road — Sino-Italian Fashion Show is the climax of the series of fashion shows. The influential figures in the fashion design circles of the two countries, as well as the fashion collision they brought about, obviously pushed the industrial trade between the two countries to a higher dialogue platform, conducting in-depth exchanges on the superstructure of industries such as cultural heritage, creative ideas, and fashion trends. This not only promotes the industrial cooperation to the cultural realm from processing trade, general trade, and cross-border mergers and acquisitions, but also advances the purchasing trade of a large number of young designers within their respective markets to a civilized dialogue between design masters.

国际时尚工业互联网中心揭牌仪式

The International Fashion Industry Internet Center was officially unveiled

而对于促成此次时尚对话的两国组织——意大利国家时装商会（CNMI）与华夏基石产业服务集团来说，显然是一次很好的实验。这是中意双方一起致力于共同推动两国时尚产业的可持续发展、新锐品牌和设计师的孵化和推广、数字化转型、时尚艺术文化传播等更高端更丰富合作内容的局部呈现。

而这一切，仅仅是一个开端。在两国组织的合作愿景中，更多的内容正在热切探讨中。可以预期的是，两国的时尚产业合作将带来更让人惊喜的成果。

It is obviously a good experiment of the two organizations that contributed to this fashion dialogue —Chinastone Industrial Services Group and guest of honor Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana (CNMI). Mr. Carlo Capasa, Chairman of CNMI, had shared a message of hope regarding further collaboration between China and Italy, especially on promotion of emerging brands and designers, digitalization, sustainability.

And all this is just a start. More content is being eagerly discussed between Chinese and Italian fashion communities. It can be expected that the fashion industry cooperation between the two countries will bring more surprising results.